a la Carteret

AJ's Seafood Restaurant

by Sandy Craft

It was lunchtime on a Wednesday when my Companion-in-Eating and I arrived at AJ’s Seafood Restaurant on Arendell Street in Morehead City .  Owner/cook Joseph Sharp let us know that it was perhaps a good thing we had not come a day earlier because that is when the lines run out the door for the day’s special, conch stew.   As it was, things were pretty lively for the chicken and pastry special. 

 At first glance, ordering lunch might seem to be a piece of cake (that’s just an expression, I am not thinking about dessert, yet).  They offer just about any kind of Po Boy you can think of: shrimp, soft shell crab, chicken (grilled or salad) and oyster to name a few.  You can even get it without the bread, which is perfect; then you won’t feel badly about adding fries. Our very helpful waitress, Misty, let us know that we can order any of the seafood dinners (except the combination platters) complete with sides, but at the lunchtime price of $6.25 or $6.95 depending on whether it’s fried or broiled. What to have? Crab cakes, shrimp, scallops, plain or au gratin, fried or broiled or salad and then there are those veggie sides.  Decisions, decisions. 

 We were rescued from our indecision by Joseph’s cute-as-pie (Reminder: save room for dessert) wife, Kelly.  She suggested a sampler, so we could see for ourselves what it is their customers keep coming back for. We munched on crisp, delicious hush puppies as we tried both the Core Sound  and the New England style clam chowders prepared by cook Albert Cowan. He has been a cook in this area for more than 40 years and, take it from me, he does a great job on the clam chowder.  We gave the local version the edge over the New England style, but perhaps that’s just local bias.

Speaking of local, both Joseph and Albert are.  Although Joseph spent a couple of years cooking for the Reagan White House, they formed their partnership after years of cooking for other restaurants.  They wanted the satisfaction of having their own place where they could develop their own local following. They make a point of buying local produce and seafood in season. This takes a little more time and trouble, but is another way to ensure that customers do come back.  Local tastes better, we all know that.

 The fried shrimp and the crab cakes are both favorites. You can really enjoy the seafood because the breading or filler does not overpower.  The shrimp is lightly dusted with cornmeal to make it crunchy but not greasy.  It was a good thing we just had a small cup of conch stew, because it is a hearty meal in itself.  I was intrigued by the inclusion of cornmeal dumplings as an ingredient.   And then we got to the grilled rib-eye steak, for when you just don’t feel like local. My CiE tumbled right off her veggie wagon, the steak was so good. 

 Last but not least, we asked about dessert. They make the pies themselves; the cheesecake is made farther down Arendell Street . We tried both the lemon and the sugar-free apple pie.  I’m not sure why I decided on the sugar free.  It’s so out of character, but my bathroom scale must have flashed before my eyes. If you’re worried about zipping up your favorite shorts, definitely consider this tasty alternative.  It was very good, but the Lemon Pie is what I call dessert.

 In addition to providing sugar-free sweets, there are a few other things you might like to know about AJ’s.  The dinner menu features smaller portions at a lower cost for children or seniors.  There are no alcoholic beverages served there; they do serve freshly brewed tea (either with or without sugar, too). You don’t get real tea much anymore. You don’t need to make reservations, unless it’s for a large party, so they can make sure to have a large table set up.  If you prefer, they will gladly prepare your order for take-out.  So drop by and check it out, for lunch or dinner any day but Sunday.  And if you want to really make Joseph happy, come back again and bring a friend!

QUICK BITES

Address:  4650 Arendell Street , Carteret Village,  Morehead City

Phone: (252) 247-3119

Hours:  Summer – June - October

Monday-Thursday 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m.

Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.          

Winter – (November – May) Opening hours are the same

Monday- Thursday close at 7:30 – 8 p.m.

Friday and Saturday close at 8:30 p.m.

Price Range : Lunch starts at $3.75

                    Dinner starts at $7.95

Payment:  Visa, MasterCard, Diners, American Express

                Local checks are accepted

Reservations:  Only for larger parties

 This is a non-smoking restaurant.

A TASTE OF… Lemon Pie

 The recipes for AJ’s dishes are all top secret, but we did find a lemon pie recipe that was similar to the delicious one we tasted there. We added the meringue.

Lemon Pie

 Ritz Cracker crust for 9-inch pie

1 1/2 cups Ritz Cracker crumbs
3 tablespoons sugar
1/3 cup butter, melted

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Mix cracker crumbs and sugar in bowl. Add butter; mix thoroughly.  Press mixture firmly and evenly into bottom and sides of pie pan. Bake 10 minutes. Cool before adding filling.

 Filling

4 egg yolks, beaten
1 cup lemon juice or to taste
1 can sweetened condensed milk

Pour into cracker crumb crust. Top with meringue.

 Meringue

3 egg whites, at room temperature
6 tablespoons sugar
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

 Beat the egg whites at high speed with an electric mixer until soft peaks form. With mixer running, add the cream of tartar, then gradually add the sugar, a tablespoon at a time, and beat until stiff peaks form. Pile atop pie, and bake at 350 F for 12 to 15 minutes, or until lightly browned.

7/22

Sandy Craft owned and operated a catering company in Atlanta for 17 years. 
She is one of the few people who actually still cooks, but she finds following 
a recipe goes against her nature. When traveling she likes to visit local grocery 
stores and farm stands, and she thoroughly enjoys good food.

See the previously reviewed restaurants on the Restaurant Archive page

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