Dining a la Carteret

Channel Marker Restaurant, Atlantic Beach

by Sherley Buckland

The Channel Marker Restaurant in Atlantic Beach is celebrating 25 years of providing residents and visitors of Carteret County some of the finest seafood and Southern hospitality.

Its menu offers something for everyone, and now includes nightly chef specialties and shrimp night on Wednesdays (eight varieties of shrimp just $9.95 each).

In addition to consistently providing fabulous food and memorable dining experiences, the Channel Marker’s wine list is most impressive.  Unlike any other wine list in this area, 34 of the 36 labels are available by the glass or bottle, and all are moderately priced. 

This provides an excellent way to experience new wine parings with each course of your meal at Channel Marker.  General Manager Ed Myers built this wine list by personally tasting each wine “to ensure quality, value and exceptional food paring qualities.”  All house wines at the Channel Marker are Biltmore Estate Wines.

My host for the evening, Myers described in detail each course presented and explained each recommended wine pairing.  We began with the Channel Marker she crab soup.  A thick, cream-base soup full of Alaskan snow crab and backfin blue crab meat with a hint of wine, each spoonful of soup overflows with crabmeat. 

Accompanying the soup was the Biltmore Estate pinot grigio. With peach aromas and citrus tannins, this wine cuts through the creamy texture of the soup leaving a clean palate.

The pan seared, sesame crusted tuna with wasabi and teriyaki sauce is almost too beautiful to eat.  The sushi-grade tuna is very mild; with each bite you get hints of the different sauces that are painted on the dish. 

Paired with the tuna was my favorite of the Channel Marker wines — Kelly’s Promise Australian cabernet/merlot.  A very soft and velvety blend with hints of black cherry and plum, this is a very romantic wine, not overpowering or bold, a perfect match for the tuna.

The Channel Marker Down South crab cakes are pan seared, then baked.  One bite will explain. They are so full of crabmeat that they probably have to be pan seared to prevent them from falling apart. 

There is very little bread in these crab cakes, which are delicious with the mango chutney and pair well with the Ramon Bilbao Mar de Frades of Spain .  This is a light, balanced white wine with lemon citrus nuances and tropical fruit overtones.

The Mar de Frades also pairs well with the pork, shrimp and pineapple kabobs, a new chef specialty created by executive chef Tim Hall.  These kabobs are grilled, tender and so good.  Do not pass on this one, as they are great as an appetizer or an entrée.

If you prefer fried seafood, you cannot visit the Channel Marker without trying the fried shrimp (or fried oysters or fried scallops).  The fried seafood here is different.  The breading is very fine, almost like baby powder. 

The seafood is lightly breaded, and lightly fried allowing the natural flavors of the seafood to come through.

A nice accompaniment to the fried seafood items is a new wine being tested for the Channel Marker wine list, R.A. Phillips 2003 sauvignon blanc, which is light, crisp and not overpowering.

The landlubber will not be disappointed with the stuffed filet.  This tender cut of beef is filled with tomatoes, spinach, and Gorgonzola cheese wrapped with bacon and served over garlic mashed potatoes.  Heavenly, fork tender, melt-in-your-mouth good. 

Served with the stuffed filet was the Simi cabernet sauvignon, chilled.  This masculine, California red features full flavors, full body and a slightly smoky finish.

Any pasta lover would appreciate the Greek shrimp pasta, a recipe Myers created for the chef specialty menu.  Just imagine sautéed shrimp, queen olives, chopped tomatoes, feta cheese, Parmesan cheese and basil folded into pasta and served in a large bowl. 

Feta cheese, tomatoes and olives are three of my favorite ingredients in any dish and this entrée is a wonderful combination of freshness, favorites and flavor. 

As if there were any room, bring on the desserts.  Pastry chef Bonnie Lilly makes all desserts in house.

 The dessert tray will make you weak - vanilla crème brulee, key lime pie, chocolate cheesecake or triple fudge espresso cake (with coffee in the icing), which was the 2005 Best of Show winner at the Chocolate Festival. 

Lilly created three desserts for Myers to consider entering in the festival competition.  They chose the cake from one, the filling from the second, the icing from the third and combined the three items to develop Channel Marker’s award-winning dessert.

Served with dessert was the Biltmore Estate Blanc de Blanc sparkling wine.

 This crisp, dry, bubbly wine cleans your palate and ends (or begins) an evening with grace and beauty.

Able to accommodate large groups with the attention, service and menu quality of fine dining, The Channel Marker Restaurant has something for everyone. 

Myers and the staff of the Channel Marker have proven for 25 years that top-quality products provide a top-quality meal, and quality and service never go out of style.

 


Quick Bites

Channel Marker Restaurant

Location: 718 Atlantic Beach Causeway, Atlantic Beach

Phone: (252) 247-2344

Hours: Dinner, Monday-Sunday from 5-10 p.m.; lunch, Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.; breakfast, Saturday and Sunday from 7-11 a.m.

Reservations: Not required.

Price Range : Appetizers start at $6.95, and entrees start at $11.95. Menu also includes nightly features and a children’s menu.

Payment Options: Cash, MasterCard, Visa.

4/14/06



See the previously reviewed restaurants on the Restaurant Archive page

Back to THIS WEEK MAGAZINE Index