Dining a la Carteret

Cru Wine Bar

by Sherley Buckland

Upon entering the Cru Wine Bar and Store at 120 Turner St. in downtown Beaufort, the peacefulness will envelop you.  It could be a combination of the quaint old Beaufort surroundings, antique front door handle and creaking floors of the store, or the welcoming voice of manager Wanda Mullis.  Whatever it is, you will know immediately that your presence is appreciated. 

Don’t let the floor-to-ceiling wine racks or the thousands of beautiful wine bottles fool you — this is not your average wine store.  Just a few steps past the counter and you are standing in a cozy little dining and visiting area, perfect for a light meal or intimate conversation. 

During my visit, Wanda prepared several dishes and appropriate wine parings for me to sample, and any “fellow foodie” would have shared my excitement.  Wanda began by telling me that the soup-and-half-sandwich combo varied daily.

Today’s combo was a seafood chowder, prepared that morning, and served with a prosciutto, an Italian, thinly sliced ham, and Canadian bacon sandwich that was topped with feta cheese (a personal favorite), Greek olives and provolone, all on focaccia bread.  This delicious combo could satisfy anyone’s mealtime cravings.  It’s a good thing the combo comes with a half sandwich, or one might be temped to overindulge. 

Next was a choice of hot or cold smoked salmon; both are available daily.  The salmon is wild caught and smoked in Colorado . I went with the cold/spicy version, served with an onion and caper relish, fraiche and corn bread crackers.  The salmon was fork tender and flaked beautifully. 

After about two or three bites, you start to notice a little heat or kick from the spices in the crust.  The spices were subtle enough to complement the fish and did not camouflage the natural flavor of the salmon.  I highly recommend this entree to anyone looking for something fresh and healthy.

This full-flavored course needed a nice pinot grigio to balance my palate preferences.  However, if you prefer a red, let me suggest the 2003 Hop Kiln “Big Red,” which was served with the course.  This Russian River Valley blend is 46 percent zinfandel, 45 percent pinot noir and 9 percent cabernet sauvignon.  This red starts sweet, has a full texture and a slightly peppery finish. 

The salmon was followed by warm brie with red onion relish and cracked wheat crackers.  Surprisingly, the relish was as sweet as candy, and gave a nice mix to an old classic. 

Paired well with the warm brie was the 2003 SeaRidge.  This California cabernet sauvignon is a delicate red with hints of berry and vanilla, as well as a slight aroma of cedar.  (This particular Cab is a steal at $10 per bottle.  I couldn’t help but notice the Tall Ship on the label.  Look for this bottle in wine store windows during the next few months.) 

Dessert at Cru Wine Bar is exclusive.  They serve Escazu Chocolates.  Wanda’s son Hallot Parson makes these artisan single-origin chocolate bars upstairs from Cru Wine Bar.  Not only does Hal make the chocolates, he also hand selected the cocoa bean plantations and processing centers in Venezuela and Costa Rica . 

Being a chocolate lover myself, I truly appreciate the rich but not overpowering taste of the 61 percent pure chocolate bars.  These are not candy bars you eat in one sitting; Escazu is a chocolate experience.

Tasting chocolate is a lot like tasting wine.  The first thing you do is observe; the color will indicate something about the chocolate. Darker colors indicate purer chocolate as is the case with Escazu. 

Second, you smell the chocolate (preferably with your eyes closed).  The scent of the chocolate will alert your palate to what’s coming. 

Now you can taste it.  Take a bite of the chocolate, chew slightly and hold the chocolate in your mouth for a few seconds before swallowing.  If you do this you will realize that you taste different chocolates in different places on your palate; sweeter chocolates are tasted in the front, darker chocolates are tasted more on the sides.  Be sure to clear your palate with water between chocolates.

Currently there are three Escazu Venezuelan Chocolate bars: Pure Single Origin Venezuelan Chocolate, Pure Single Origin Venezuelan Chocolate with nibs and Pure Single Origin Venezuelan Chocolate with dried bananas. 

My personal favorite is the chocolate with nibs.  Nibs are coarsely ground cocoa beans mixed in the chocolate, giving bold flavor and a difference in texture.  Three new Costa Rican bars are due out this spring, one of which will be appropriately named, “The Beaufort Bar.”

Our Chocolates (and a little chocolate biscotti) were perfectly matched with a 2005 Columbia Valley Cellar Masters Riesling from Washington State .  This sweeter wine offers fruit tastes of pear and apricot with a slight honey finish.  The chocolate, when paired with this wine, really accentuated the fruit flavors of the Riesling, creating a delicious delicacy.

Just as my dining experience was coming to a close, Wanda suggested I try one more of her wines, the 1999 Boroli.  Boroli comes from the Northern Piedmont of Italy and is usually one of the two best and most expensive Italian wines.  I was thrilled to have the opportunity to sample this grape.  This wine is ultra soft and velvety with absolutely no bite.  It was hands down the smoothest finishing red wine this amateur wine lover has encountered.  If you claim to not like wine, or not like red wine, Boroli will change your perspective. 

My years of searching for “the perfect red” have come to and end.  As fellow wine enthusiast Benny Anderson put it, “The Boroli pairs well with anything from a steak to a front porch swing.” 

Another interesting component of Cru Wine Bar is their selection of microbrews and high gravity beers.  One such beer, Chimay, is a Belgian ale brewed by Trappist monks.  This Chimay boasts higher alcohol content than the average beer, and three different types of Chimay are available at Cru Wine Bar, as well as many micro brewed beers.

Wanda and Hal hope you will come and experience the greatness and comfort of fine wine, light meals, soft music and a comfortable environment perfectly suited for sharing conversations with close or new friends.

The dining and visiting space of Cru Wine Bar can be reserved for meetings, parties or civic functions.  Wanda and Hal would like to invite everyone to their wine tastings, which take place the third Wednesday of every month.  Also, through the winter, every Sunday evening at 6:30 p.m. is “Pot Luck.”  Everyone brings a covered dish, and purchases their beverage of choice at the Wine Store. 

If you are looking for a light meal in a relaxing atmosphere, or you are interested in sampling a new wine and fine chocolate, stop by Cru Wine Bar in Beaufort.  Wanda and Hal will make you feel right at home.

 


Quick Bites

Cru Wine Bar

Address: 120 Turner St. , Beaufort

Telephone: (252) 728-3066

Winter Hours: Sun.-Wed. 3-10 p.m. ; Thurs.-Sat. noon until late.

Summer Hours: Sun.-Wed. noon-11 p.m.; Thurs.-Sat. noon until late.

Price Range : Meals start at $6.95. Wines start at $10 per bottle.

Reservations: Not required.

Payment: Cash, MasterCard, Visa, local checks.

3/10/06



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