Dining a la Carteret

Front Street Grill at Stillwater

by Sherley Buckland

In the spring of 1991, Tracey Carithers received a phone call from her brother, Bryan.  The phone call was simple: Tracey, come home and let’s open a restaurant together.

At that time, Tracey was about to finish college. Both she and Bryan had grown-up in the restaurant industry; their parents owned and operated a restaurant in Atlantic Beach for many years.  It only took a second for Tracey to answer OK, and that summer the Front Street Grill opened in Beaufort.

The restaurant moved down the street to its current location overlooking Taylor ’s Creek in 2000.  At that time, Tracey and Bryan went into partnership with their parents Mike and Diane Carithers.  The view from every table is remarkable.  Watching the sunlight dance across the water is beautiful and relaxing, creating stillness in one’s spirit.  Hence the establishment’s new name, Front Street Grill at Stillwater . 

Bryan and Tracey make a great team, and Stillwater is definitely a family business.  Tracey runs the front of the house, which is restaurant lingo for everything the customer can see; greeting guests, staff management, bar management, reservations, building the wine list, special-event planning and all the business details that come with running a restaurant.  Bryan manages the back as executive chef. He oversees all aspects of the kitchen from food orders and preparation to inspecting each plate as it leaves the kitchen. 

Bryan sat with me, explaining each course I sampled at Stillwater .  As he described each dish, the sincerity of his efforts and passion for his work resonated in his voice.

We started with Ginger Pork Shu Mai Dumplings, served with Nuoc Cham Dipping Sauce and Crab Spring Rolls with Wakami Salad and Orange Sweet Chili Sauce.

Dumplings can be made two ways: pressed out (which is closed) or Shu Mai, which means open-ended.  The pastry is pulled together around the filling, but not closed.  The dumplings looked like flowers about to bloom.  The ginger complemented the pork, and the dipping sauce lightly accented the natural flavors.

I was impressed with the Crab Spring Rolls, a version of spring roll I had not tried before.  The rice flour wraps delicately surrounded the crabmeat and cabbage creating a perfect taste and texture combination.  Spring rolls have to be carefully made for the correct flavors to cook through.  These spring rolls were cooked to perfection.  I highly recommend this appetizer to everyone.  Bryan was quick to give accolades to a Thai lady named Wachalee.  She prepares all the dumplings and spring rolls at Stillwater . 

Next to come were the entrees.  The first entree we sampled was a Grilled 10-ounce center cut Pork Rib Chop.  This 2-inch Pork Rib Chop is grilled first, and then finished in the oven to preserve tenderness and create a natural jus. This jus is used to heat the ragout of oven-roasted tomatoes, shitake and crimini mushrooms.  The Pork Rib Chop and ragout are served over Klondike rose mashed potatoes and broccolini.  The broccolini is cooked “al dente” to preserve the crisp texture and sweet taste.  The layers of this entree blend beautifully and balance well.  The pork is tender, juicy and delicious.  The ragout (yum) enhances the pork’s natural flavors, and potatoes and broccolini complete a perfect meal. 

The next entree sampled was the Soy Maple Glazed Grilled Yellowfin Tuna. This Tuna could be any fish lover’s “steak” of choice.  The soy maple glaze gives the tuna a hint of sweetness.  Showcasing the tuna was fluffy jasmine rice topped with flash seared spinach.  This spinach was prepared with whole butter, garlic, salt and vegetable stock.  I always eat my vegetables, and this was the best spinach I’ve ever eaten.  Tuna steak is usually a man’s order, but ladies, please note, this one is worth our attention; fork tender and melt-in-your-mouth good.  

The last entree to sample was the Thai Shrimp Noodle Bowl with Vegetable Stir Fry.  This dish is prepared with udon noodles, green curry sauce, siracha chili sauce and a hint of coconut milk and cream.  I noticed a fullness of flavor in this course; the shrimp were spicy, but not hot.  This entree is offered minus the shrimp as a vegetarian option. 

Dinner is not complete and we cannot move on to dessert unless we talk about the wine selection at Stillwater .  Both the Tuna Steak and The Pork Rib Chop paired well with the 2004 Leveroni Pinot Noir.  A Sonoma Valley Red, this pinot is very balanced and finished with hints of dark fruit. 

Bryan and Tracey remarked that Stillwater is a Pinot Noir restaurant; they sell a lot of Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir is usually a balanced red that pairs well with everything on their menu.  There are currently eight Pinot Noirs on the wine list at Stillwater , three of which are from the Russian River Valley : the 2003 Selby, the 2001 Martinelle, and the 2002 Merry Edwards. 

The wine list at Stillwater is extensive and award winning.  There are 83 wines on the current list, which range in price from $12 to $495.  This list is a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence winner, and Stillwater has earned this award every year since 2000.

Now for dessert.  In keeping with the family business, the dessert chef is none other than Bryan ’s wife, Karen Carithers.  She presented three fabulous desserts from their menu.  The first was my favorite; Sticky Toffee Pudding made with Date Puree.  The toffee is soaked into this cake, which is served warm over crème anglais freshly whipped cream. 

If that doesn’t sound tempting, how about a Belgian Chocolate Brownie swirled with cheesecake and topped with homemade hot fudge?  This dessert has a soufflé-like texture and rich taste. 

Karen, being a Vermont native, was especially proud of the Maple Crème Brulee.  She makes this dessert with a dark amber maple syrup to get the true maple flavor to come through.  If you like Crème Brulee, you should try this one.  The flavor is like no other. 

In addition to a wonderful dinner menu, award-winning wine list and decadent desserts, Front Street Grill at Stillwater offers nightly dinner and drink specials, lunch daily and a fabulous Sunday Brunch.  The Carithers family is eager to meet you and provide an exquisite dining experience overlooking beautiful Taylor ’s Creek.  This summer, be sure to stop in and check out their new outdoor lounge and dining area, which is currently under renovation.  

Quick Bites

Front Street Grill at Stillwater

Address: 300 Front St. , Beaufort

Telephone: (252) 728-4956

Hours: Lunch: Tuesday-Sunday from 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. ; Dinner: Tuesday-Sunday from 5:30-9:30 p.m. ; Sunday Brunch: 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. ; Closed Mondays.

Prices Range : appetizers start at $6.95. Entrees start at $19.95. Nightly dinner and drink specials.

Reservations: Recommended.

Payment: Cash, MasterCard, Visa.

3/17/06

See the previously reviewed restaurants on the Restaurant Archive page

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