a la Carteret
Mrs. Willis'
Restaurant 
by Sandy Craft
When
I was told that my next assignment would be Mrs. Willis’ Restaurant in
This restaurant is truly steeped in family tradition. It’s hard to imagine that Ma Willis, starting this venture almost 50 years ago, could envision how enduring it would be or how many of her children, grandchildren and even great grandchildren would work to carry on her business. But then again, I think she probably did know.
Whether you’re greeted by one of the seasoned staff or a
member of Mrs. Willis’ clan, you will feel right at home.
It’s just that kind of place. And
of course, if it’s a chilly night and the fireplace is blazing, and those
wonderful smells are coming out of the kitchen, you can close your eyes and
feel like you’ve gone back to a wonderful time.
My Companion-in-Eating and I were lucky enough to be taken care of by Jamie, an energetic granddaughter, as well as Mona Gonsalves, one of Mrs. Willis’ six children. It is obvious that Mona runs the ship. She is a gracious fixture in the restaurant and determined to take the best care of her customers. I could go on and on about this family and how they all work so well together. It’s amazing and a pleasure to experience.
There is something for all appetites on the extensive menu. Most everything is made right there, from soups to sauces, crab cakes to coleslaw. When we asked about a recipe, Jamie laughed and brought us a very weathered index card written in her grandmother’s hand! No computers here, she said with a twinkle. As is the case with many good cooks, the measurements are often in pinches and dashes. When Mona asked her mother to be more specific, she was told to use her good sense. And she has.
I think everyone has their own favorites at Mrs.
Willis’. The steaks and hamburgers are cooked on a charcoal grill (by
Jamie’s husband, Danny Ballou — let’s hear it for the in-laws!) and are
tender and flavorful. The local
shrimp is served just about any way you can think of with a killer cocktail
sauce that is heavy on the horseradish just the way I like it. It will
definitely open up those sinuses. Whatever you order, you must try the fried
onion rings. They go well with the
fried shrimp or scallops, or the steak, or the veggie plate.
Come to think about it, there isn’t anything they don’t go with!
Many folks think a veggie plate from this restaurant is hard to beat. My problem is choosing just three or even four. The baked sweet potatoes with cinnamon are great, as is the squash casserole and the collards. They do something special to the coleslaw; field peas or butter beans are also good choices. See what I mean about trying to decide?
Pies are all homemade. They were out of the chocolate pie when we visited (boo hoo), but the coconut cream and the lemon were the real thing. I had never tried the strawberry pudding before, and it was yummy. I was hoping we would get the recipe! That’s OK, now I know one thing for sure I will order next time.
In addition to the various dining rooms, there is also a room for private parties, reunions or birthday parties and a pool room. Be sure and keep your eyes open, and watch for the opening of the oyster bar, which will probably happen later on this fall. If you’re in a big hurry, just give them a call, and they’ll have your order ready to go.
When you walk around and see the old photos and articles,
as well as lots of new family photos, you get such a sense of the strong
tradition behind this establishment. In
March 2006, Mrs. Willis’ will be having its 50th anniversary, and we will
all have to help celebrate such a grand occasion. But don’t wait until then
to experience an evening of good home cooking and camaraderie with the Willis
clan.
From the Willis family archives, here is one of the old menus from the restaurant.
Quick
Bites
Mrs. Willis'
Address: 3114 Bridges Street, Morehead City
Sunday – 11 a.m. until
Lunch: Tuesday - Friday 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.
Closed for lunch on Monday, Saturday
Dinner Entrees start at $6.50
A Taste of.....
Mrs. Willis’ Manhattan Clam Chowder
4 gallons tomatoes
3 cans potatoes, juice and all, sliced are better than diced
4 clam juices
2 jars tomato juice
3 large onions, minced
2 jars ketchup
Salt, pepper, seasonings
Combine all ingredients. Adjust seasonings to taste.
Sandy
Craft owned and operated a catering company in Atlanta
for 17 years.
She is one of the few people who actually still cooks, but she finds
following
a recipe goes against her nature. When traveling she likes to visit local
grocery
stores and farm stands, and she thoroughly enjoys good food.
See the previously reviewed restaurants on the Restaurant Archive page
Back to THIS WEEK MAGAZINE Index