a la Carteret

Shades by the Sea

by Sandy Craft

Although the Sheraton Hotel underwent extensive renovations two years ago, at Shades by the Sea change is constant, and that’s just the way manager Raymond Hopkins likes it.  Whether he is working with wine reps to better educate the staff or planning new menu ideas with Chef John Andreola, the goal always remains to improve the offerings and service.  Not only do they want to have great dining for their hotel guests, but they really want it to be a destination for the locals seeking everything from a nice light dinner to celebrating a special occasion.

My Companion-in-Eating and I quickly had to roll up our sleeves and get to work in order to sample all the dishes that Chef John had prepared.   If you’re dining with a group, don’t miss the “Ultimate Appetizer,” a sampler of tender ribs, onion rings, chicken fingers, fried mozzarella and fried shrimp.

We also enjoyed the hot crab and artichoke dip that was full of fresh crab meat and served with crispy pita wedges.  But we could not stop taking just one more little bite of the stuffed portobello mushroom.  It was briefly grilled then stuffed with crabmeat and topped with mozzarella cheese and run under the broiler.  What could be better with a glass of crisp Pinot Grigio recommended by our host?

Still eyeing the remains of the portobello, we somewhat hesitantly moved on to our main course. But what fickle fans we proved to be. As our entrees appeared, our reluctance vanished and that mushroom was but a memory.

The charbroiled veal chop was juicy, fork-tender and topped with a caramelized red onion and port compote that was out of this world.  I haven’t seen veal chops served often in this area, and this was truly a treat. 

My CiE, however, was enjoying comparing the Captain’s Platter of broiled flounder and sea scallops in a light lemon butter sauce and the slightly richer scallops alfredo featuring scallops on the half shell (another thing you don’t see too often).  It was almost too pretty to eat.  I said almost. Both dishes were served with vegetables that were still crisp and colorful, the way they should be.

Raymond said that since he arrived at the hotel in March, it has been his goal to work with staff and Chef John to make Shades friendlier and more personal than the typical hotel dining room.  He is adamant about having personnel that are outgoing and eager to be of service. And everyone we met certainly takes this philosophy to heart.

They are also busy creating menus to appeal to locals as well as the hotel guests.  On Friday and Saturday nights, they offer an incredible seafood and prime rib buffet for $23.95 for adults (respectful of their elders, those over 55 receive a discount).  Not only does the buffet have a shrimp and scallop station that will prepare them just about anyway you want, but also they have a big salad bar with crab legs and other cold seafoods, plus the prime rib station for you carnivores and a large dessert selection (my advice: head straight for the Key Lime Pie).  There is truly something for everyone.

For a little lighter dinner, Sunday through Thursday nights during the off-season, Shades by the Sea will be offering an “Early Islander” menu from 5-7 p.m.   The selections start at $7.95 and will include grilled salmon, liver and onions and a 6 oz. steak, just to name a few.  Be on the lookout, too, for the wine tastings they are planning in the fall.  Chef John will be pairing some of his own hors d’oeuvres with some interesting wines.  

And, how else may they be of service?  Open for breakfast and lunch daily, Chef John will gladly serve you eggs ponchartrain (two poached eggs on an English muffin with bacon, andouille hollandaise and fried oysters) or something simpler, if you prefer.  Or you can always count on the breakfast buffet during the summer months.  For lunch, one of his famous New York deli-style sandwiches from his early days in New Jersey sounds pretty tempting…or the portobello chicken melt or maybe a fresh salad, so you’ll have plenty of room for that seafood buffet.

Need a place for an office or private party, luncheon, or wedding reception?   Give Elizabeth Turner a call and she can tell you about the various facilities available, from the ocean view to the large banquet room.  They aim to please!

So stop by Shades by the Sea at the Sheraton even if you can’t stay for the night and let them pamper you with a lovely meal.         

  


QUICK BITES

Shades by the Sea

Address:    2717 W. Fort Macon Road , Atlantic Beach                Phone: 222-4019

 Hours:   Breakfast – 6:30 a.m. – 11:00 a.m.
         
  Lunch – 11:00 a.m. – 2:00 p.m.
         
  Dinner – 5 p.m. – 10:00 p.m.

  Price Range :  Breakfast starts at $3.50
         
           Lunch starts at $6.50
         
           Dinner entrees start at $16.95
         
           Dinner sandwiches start at $7.50

 Payment:   All Major Credit Cards

 Reservations:  Accepted, but not necessary

 Other:  Menu and personnel are kid-friendly.  This is a nonsmoking restaurant. 
        
There is smoking in the bar.

        
Banquet and private party facilities are available. 


 A Taste of ...Shades by the Sea

 

Sesame Crusted Salmon

 1/4 cup sesame oil

8 oz. salmon filet

1/4 cup sesame seeds (black and white)

1/4 oz. red bell pepper julienne

1/4 oz. green bell pepper julienne

1/4 oz. yellow bell pepper julienne

1/4 oz. orange bell pepper julienne

½ oz. fresh broccoli

½ oz. water chestnuts

½ oz. baby corn

¼ cup sweet ‘n’ spicy peanut sauce

Fresh ginger to taste

scallions

¼ cup Thai ginger sauce

¼ tsp. garlic

½ cup steamed white rice

Encrust salmon in sesame seed mixture. Heat sesame oil in 10-inch skillet and sauté salmon until brown on both sides. Remove salmon from pan and finish in 400 F oven for approximately five minutes. Return pan to heat and add pepper, broccoli, water chestnuts, baby corn, ginger and garlic tossed rapidly with Thai ginger sauce. Place rice in center of large dish or bowl. Remove salmon from oven, place on top of rice and surround with stir-fry vegetables. Drizzle with peanut sauce and garnish with scallions, sesame seeds and oriental kale.

  



Sandy Craft owned and operated a catering company in Atlanta for 17 years. 
She is one of the few people who actually still cooks, but she finds following 
a recipe goes against her nature. When traveling she likes to visit local grocery 
stores and farm stands, and she thoroughly enjoys good food.



See the previously reviewed restaurants on the Restaurant Archive page

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8/12/05