Dining a la Onslow

The White Oak River Bistro
by Sandy Craft

Dear readers, I hope you will forgive me for abandoning the original title of this column (à la Carteret ) because this week we are venturing into Onslow.  Yes, my Companions-in-Eating (CiE) and I bravely crossed another bridge, ending up at the charming White Oak River Bistro in Swansboro. 

Situated on the White Oak River, the restaurant occupies an attractive  building with spectacular views of the river.  To round out this idyllic setting, owner and master-of-all-tasks Gene Heath offers a wonderful lunch and dinner featuring what he refers to as European cuisine.  (With a very strong Italian slant, I would add.)

The warm wood interior and little white lights create an inviting ambiance that exactly matched our welcome by manager Cathy Perrini and owner, cook, event planner, pastry chef, dish washer, what-ever-needs-doing person, Gene Heath.  Gene retired from corporate life in Philadelphia to our area 19 years ago.  He first bought the Flying Bridge restaurant. Then in 1997, he purchased the White Oak River Bistro, yet another example that falls into the “And this is retirement?” category.

On our ride to Swansboro, my CiE said she remembered having a stuffed bread appetizer that was really good.  Stuffed bread?  I don’t know but that makes me feel, well, stuffed, and I haven’t even gotten started yet!   So when Gene said we’d start out with one of their stuffed breads, I wasn’t too sure.

I’ve given it some thought, but I haven’t been able to come up with a name that really describes this wonderful creation made from homemade foccacio dough.  Ours was filled with chopped fresh tomatoes, proscuitto, basil and mozzarella, and baked until the bread was crispy, the cheese was melted and there was a wonderful fragrance of fresh rosemary.  You could also order a cheese or veggie stuffed bread.  And I’m thinking about going back for one of each.  Seriously.  I am totally hooked on stuffed bread.

Our appetizer was definitely a hard act to follow.  But Gene did not disappoint with either the Pollo Scarpariello or the seared tuna topped with puttanesca sauce and basil pesto.  The tuna was a refreshing and delicious change from the usual sesame seed preparation.  The sautéed boneless chicken breast was served with a light sauce of white wine, capers, garlic and rosemary. Both were accompanied by bright, crisp, steamed veggies and pasta.  A choice light fresh marinara or a creamy rich Alfredo sauce may be ordered for the pasta.

At dinner, you could stick with more traditional pasta entrees, but you might want to consider the veal, seafood or one of the chicken entrees.   I also think the hand-tossed pizzas sound great for lunch or dinner. During the season, there are several appetizer and entrée specials daily.  The $7.95 early-bird special changes daily and can be ordered from lunch until 5 p.m.

Of course, I would feel like I was not being conscientious if I did not try at least one of Gene’s homemade desserts.  Well, make that two.  My CiEs remained quite civilized, but did polish off every rich, yummy crumb of the Napoleon as well as the tiramisu torte.  Both were ever so slightly decadent; isn’t that the way dessert is supposed to be?  In addition to these, the White Oak River Bistro makes its own éclairs and cannolis.  I didn’t try those.  Am I shirking my responsibility?

For lunch the Bistro pannini sandwich made with the homemade focaccia, or one of the specialty pizzas (maybe the fresh veggie or the seafood), or a salad with one of the homemade soups sound terrific.  And, of course, there’s the stuffed bread.

Although Gene handles quite a lot of off-site catering, the restaurant itself is a favorite spot for weddings, receptions and other private parties.  Not only can tents be set up outside, but the veranda and the interior combine to accommodate a wide variety of events, seated or otherwise.  Bride and groom can even arrive by boat!  Cool!

There you have it.  In our effort to explore the many options on our very large “restaurant menu,” we discovered a great place to go either as a sole destination, or as part of a fun trip to poke around picturesque Swansboro. And when you go from Morehead, do me a favor and give me a call.  I’d like an order of stuffed bread to go.

 


Quick Bites

White Oak River Bistro

Address: 206 Corbett Avenue (Highway 24), Swansboro

Phone: (910) 326-1696

Hours: Lunch 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. , dinner 5 p.m. – 10 p.m. ; Closed on    Tuesday in the off-season. Open daily in season.

Price Range : Lunch starts at $6.95. Dinner entrees start at             $11.95.

Payment: Visa, MasterCard, local checks.

Reservations: Yes, but not essential.

   Other: There is a smoking section. Seating available on the  porch. Both staff and menu are kid-friendly.  Both on and off-site catering available.

 

1/20/06




Sandy Craft owned and operated a catering company in Atlanta for 17 years. 
She is one of the few people who actually still cooks, but she finds following 
a recipe goes against her nature. When traveling she likes to visit local grocery 
stores and farm stands, and she thoroughly enjoys good food.



See the previously reviewed restaurants on the Restaurant Archive page

Back to THIS WEEK MAGAZINE Index